Joan's Kosher Kitchen
Joan Kekst
25450 Fairmount Blvd.
Beachwood, OH 44122
joank@ameritech.net
www.joanskosherkitchen.com
See Joan's profile in the Cambridge Who's Who!
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Joan's Story
In the Beginning
“Your mother must have been a wonderful cook - - -“is a comment often made to me as my cooking experience grew. Not exactly, had to be my response. My mother could cook, but in truth, she did many other things that she liked much more than being in the kitchen. Mom could sew; she designed and tailored beautiful, hand finished garments; she painted portraits and still-life paintings and she wrote poetry. Mom played the piano, wrote a plat that inspired a new Hadassah group in our suburb. She was always beautifully groomed and known as a great hostess, whether or not she cooked the meal.
It was my grandmother’s unique kitchen with its well-worn pots and pans, where I spent a great deal of time. On her ancient wood table, we kneaded dough, ate lunch, peeled potatoes and carrots and my grandfather always beat me in gin rummy. I loved being there, especially before Passover. What an aromatic, busy, chaotic, fun place. Mom, my aunts and cousins all appeared. Mostly, we kids dried the assorted dishes, set the table; then escaped outside.
When I married, I discovered my husband’s family all had kitchens like my grandparents’ – kosher. In their kitchen, I had learned not to take from there, but from there. My husband needed a similar kitchen. My mother-in-law’s great sense of humor, quickly helped me sort wedding gifts into a Meat or Milk category; and made setting up our kitchen, fun and easy.
Our grandparents were pleased; I was a bit baffled, but living with my in-laws until my husband graduated college eased me into daily kosher kitchen. Soon our wedding gifts in their kitchen gained some logic.
Our son was born, doted on by grandparents; a second child was on the way. We needed our own place. The second child arrived early; twin daughters. Wow! We rented rooms just months before my husband got his degree in architecture. Our families were equally thrilled about his graduation and our thriving three children. “You have to make a party”, they declared!
Parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles went into high gear. I busily changed diapers and made formula as they brought the food, chairs and paper goods. It was the 50’s current party menu: deli sandwiches, potato salad, cole slaw, dill pickles, watermelon and chocolate cake for dessert. Looking back on that day, I dearly love how our families rallied to the occasion, but I didn’t like the menu.
At the time, the typical American Jewish weekday menu: included steaks, hamburgers, stew, meatloaf, tuna salad or salmon loaf on Thursday and chicken on Friday. You knew the day of the week by the menu. Parties, including many Simchas, were a deli menu. As I grew more familiar with kashrut (the dietary laws) and sampled dishes at other parties that were striking and tastier kosher foods, I became resolute. Kosher food could be attractive, contemporary, delicious, well prepared and attractively served. I read cookbooks and poured over Gourmet magazine. New kosher products came on the market; pareve margarine, could be used with either meat or milk dishes. I recognized the kosher emblem on many foods that had rarely been used in our family. I ventured forth in my own kitchen. I practiced weekly on our growing family at the Shabbat dinner table.
I had made gefilte fish, tsimmes (over) roasted chicken and challah with my grandmother and later explored other traditional dishes for the Jewish holiday table. I read about holiday rituals in simple formats to teach in my Sunday school classes. It was hard to tell who were more intrigued, the kids or me. My husband would ask if we were going to eat or was there another ‘burnt offering’ on the way. Feeding our young family gave me lots of practice with economic foods; meatballs, chili, spaghetti sauce, meatloaf, meatless lasagna, and best of all, making pies. I made pies for appetizers, main courses and desserts. I still love making pies.
When our three oldest kids were in high school, the choir and orchestra had endless bake sales. Kids were required to bring goodies. Several of their friends had working mothers and baked cookies at our house; it was a lot of fun. My daughters and their friends convinced me not to pursue a degree in English. “There’s lots of kids like us who need to learn how to maneuver in the kitchen and you make it fun,” .they said For once, I listened. In 1976 I got a degree in Home economics education.
continued on next column
“Your mother must have been a wonderful cook - - -“is a comment often made to me as my cooking experience grew. Not exactly, had to be my response. My mother could cook, but in truth, she did many other things that she liked much more than being in the kitchen. Mom could sew; she designed and tailored beautiful, hand finished garments; she painted portraits and still-life paintings and she wrote poetry. Mom played the piano, wrote a plat that inspired a new Hadassah group in our suburb. She was always beautifully groomed and known as a great hostess, whether or not she cooked the meal.
It was my grandmother’s unique kitchen with its well-worn pots and pans, where I spent a great deal of time. On her ancient wood table, we kneaded dough, ate lunch, peeled potatoes and carrots and my grandfather always beat me in gin rummy. I loved being there, especially before Passover. What an aromatic, busy, chaotic, fun place. Mom, my aunts and cousins all appeared. Mostly, we kids dried the assorted dishes, set the table; then escaped outside.
When I married, I discovered my husband’s family all had kitchens like my grandparents’ – kosher. In their kitchen, I had learned not to take from there, but from there. My husband needed a similar kitchen. My mother-in-law’s great sense of humor, quickly helped me sort wedding gifts into a Meat or Milk category; and made setting up our kitchen, fun and easy.
Our grandparents were pleased; I was a bit baffled, but living with my in-laws until my husband graduated college eased me into daily kosher kitchen. Soon our wedding gifts in their kitchen gained some logic.
Our son was born, doted on by grandparents; a second child was on the way. We needed our own place. The second child arrived early; twin daughters. Wow! We rented rooms just months before my husband got his degree in architecture. Our families were equally thrilled about his graduation and our thriving three children. “You have to make a party”, they declared!
Parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles went into high gear. I busily changed diapers and made formula as they brought the food, chairs and paper goods. It was the 50’s current party menu: deli sandwiches, potato salad, cole slaw, dill pickles, watermelon and chocolate cake for dessert. Looking back on that day, I dearly love how our families rallied to the occasion, but I didn’t like the menu.
At the time, the typical American Jewish weekday menu: included steaks, hamburgers, stew, meatloaf, tuna salad or salmon loaf on Thursday and chicken on Friday. You knew the day of the week by the menu. Parties, including many Simchas, were a deli menu. As I grew more familiar with kashrut (the dietary laws) and sampled dishes at other parties that were striking and tastier kosher foods, I became resolute. Kosher food could be attractive, contemporary, delicious, well prepared and attractively served. I read cookbooks and poured over Gourmet magazine. New kosher products came on the market; pareve margarine, could be used with either meat or milk dishes. I recognized the kosher emblem on many foods that had rarely been used in our family. I ventured forth in my own kitchen. I practiced weekly on our growing family at the Shabbat dinner table.
I had made gefilte fish, tsimmes (over) roasted chicken and challah with my grandmother and later explored other traditional dishes for the Jewish holiday table. I read about holiday rituals in simple formats to teach in my Sunday school classes. It was hard to tell who were more intrigued, the kids or me. My husband would ask if we were going to eat or was there another ‘burnt offering’ on the way. Feeding our young family gave me lots of practice with economic foods; meatballs, chili, spaghetti sauce, meatloaf, meatless lasagna, and best of all, making pies. I made pies for appetizers, main courses and desserts. I still love making pies.
When our three oldest kids were in high school, the choir and orchestra had endless bake sales. Kids were required to bring goodies. Several of their friends had working mothers and baked cookies at our house; it was a lot of fun. My daughters and their friends convinced me not to pursue a degree in English. “There’s lots of kids like us who need to learn how to maneuver in the kitchen and you make it fun,” .they said For once, I listened. In 1976 I got a degree in Home economics education.
continued on next column
In 1980, the editor of the Cleveland Jewish News and his family made Aliyah to Israel. His wife had been the paper’s food writer. Brazenly, I applied for the job – and got it! My learning curve, kitchen and study sessions exploded. I went to the noted Paris cooking school, La Varenne. I took classes at Siegal College of Judaic Studies, earning a Master’s degree in Judaic culture.
Over the years, I developed a curriculum for each holiday and was privileged to present Jewish Holiday Food Demonstrations for nearly every Jewish organization and synagogue in the greater Cleveland area and beyond. I developed a series of cooking classes at various locations and most recently for Siegal College of Judaic Studies, a series called ‘Jewish Kitchen Culture’. In 2000 “Passover Cookery: in the kitchen with Joan Kekst” was published. Encouraged by my children and students, I felt an easy guide for those new to Judaism or its practice, would enable young couples to make their own Seder. There’s a lot of Judaism in the kitchen and at the table.
I have the joy of cooking at any one of my five children’s lovely kitchens. They each have a different style and a different specialty. Best of all, each has taken over creating one of the Jewish holidays. I love when they gather to prepare, cook, set the tables at Passover and request their favorite foods; some good history does repeat itself. I happily learn from each of my kids in their kitchen. Best of all, cooking with my grandchildren is truly kitchen heaven.
My husband and I made frequent trips to Israel and now without him, his Israeli family still pulls me to visit. In recent years, ethnic foods from many diverse groups now living in Israel have peaked everyone’s interest. The Jewish Community Federation of Cleveland arranged two amazing food excursions for me. I spent a day cooking with Arab women in the village of Abu gosh and another day cooking with a wonderful Ethiopian woman in Be’er Sheva.
I am deeply indebted to our Israeli family who made Aliyah over fifty years ago. They arranged visits to food, spice and flower markets, wineries, cafes, restaurants and opened their kitchen to me. They make the ultimate Bar BQ; every occasion is a party co-opted by the entire Israeli family and neighborhood.
I still love being in a kitchen, and love trying new recipes. Some of the new kosher products from today’s food industry allow close simulations to create various contemporary favorites and of course vegetarian and health foods are so easy in the kosher kitchen. Thirty years later, there’s still a lot to learn. Most of all, I love preparing for my family’s Passover Seder. It is the quintessential holiday and the greatest challenge to kosher cooks, everywhere.
Suddenly, it’s thirty years later. My little kitchen career has enriched me in so many ways outside of a bank account. The pleasures at the table on Shabbat and at the holidays are beautiful lasting memories for my family. I hope it has been the same for you, my students, friends and the readers of the Cleveland Jewish News.
